(Hi! This is a long post.)
Goa is often celebrated for its beaches, but for me it’s the variety it offers that keeps me returning. Whether you want lively clubs and crowded markets or quiet, unhurried beaches, Goa delivers. I prefer the calmer side — peaceful stretches, small beach shacks, and a slow pace that lets you truly unwind.
Three years ago Ashoo introduced me to Patnem beach and I was instantly taken. It felt clean, relaxed, and free of the overcrowded tourist vibe found elsewhere. Families and a handful of travelers shared the shore, there were affordable shacks compared to north Goa, and the water seemed bluer than in other parts of the state.
Patnem moves at its own gentle pace. Located next to the busier Palolem in South Goa, it invites you to wiggle your toes in the sand, watch people go by, lose yourself in a book, or doze off under the sun. Activity is limited — the occasional jet ski or wobbling kayak, and a few runners who enjoy the long coastline — which only adds to the peaceful atmosphere.
We spent three nights in Patnem over the Holi and Good Friday long weekend. Returning after two years, we noticed more local visitors and a slightly more commercial feel, but the beach’s original charm remained intact.
We stayed in a beach-facing hut at Papaya’s, a popular shack on Patnem. Our sea view was partially obscured by potted plants and the shack itself, and at INR 2500 a night (booked in advance) I would have appreciated a few more comforts. That said, the hut was cosy and the location excellent.
Our hut, Coconut, had a small sit-out, a comfortable bed wrapped in a mosquito net, a pedestal fan, a modest bookshelf, and a bathroom with a hot shower that could have used a refresh. If you expect resort-style luxury, Patnem and its beach huts aren’t for you — half the joy here is staying in a simple, charming hut.
The staff at Papaya’s were friendly and helpful. Although voices carry into the night, the cool air makes it easy to sleep. Food at Papaya’s was decent — their vegetarian xacuti stood out and they produced excellent Goan bread on request. Prices were slightly higher than other shacks in Patnem.
We had a memorable breakfast at Papaya’s on our first morning and encountered a curious local who enjoyed reaching for my phone. Also, pineapple coconut juice quickly became my favourite refreshment — light and perfect by the sea.
Next door to Papaya’s is Namaste, where we enjoyed a more varied menu. Their Goan fish curry and wood-fired Margherita pizza were highlights, and a garlic naan satisfied an unexpected craving. The service was warm and familiar — one server even remembered us from previous visits. Namaste is a must-try if you’re in Patnem.
On the road to the beach there’s a decent supermarket and near the entrance we found Cafe Zest — a popular vegetarian spot with many vegan options. It’s a bright, bohemian space with yoga posters, colourful cushions, and friendly staff. The menu is inspired and varied, reflecting the influence of a local owner and a British partner.
When their nut milks were delayed after Holi, the Vietnamese summer rolls still shone. Fresh, crisp and packed with vegetables and fruit, they were served with a delightful sweet chilli dip. In Goa’s heat and humidity, a light meal like this felt perfect. Some dishes, like the mezze platter, were less successful, but the vegan strawberry and chocolate cakes were exceptional — creamy, rich, and built on a base of dates and nuts. The Green Goddess smoothie, a blend of spinach, spirulina, green apple and avocado, also impressed.
Away from meals we drank fresh fruit juices and stayed hydrated — essential in Goa, where the heat can deplete you quickly. We spent hours walking along the beach, taking dips in the ocean, and letting the waves do the rest. It’s a restful change from busy city life.
No visit to Patnem is complete without time at our favourite shack, Home. It truly feels like home. The food is simple, fresh, and full of flavour. Home focuses on vegetarian dishes (with eggs available) and uses locally sourced, organic ingredients. The kitchen is run by local women who prepare every dish fresh, so a little patience pays off.
The menu at Home is impressive: pastas with perfectly balanced olive oil, omelettes stuffed with mushrooms and feta, freshly baked bread with butter and honey, and a hearty fruit-curd-muesli bowl. We indulged in generous breakfasts and kept coming back for more. In the afternoons lighter dishes like tzatziki bowls and a standout Greek salad felt just right. Desserts vary, and while availability can change, the lemon tart and other treats are worth trying.
The last morning we visited Home for the fourth time to get a takeaway Mediterranean pasta. After a long airport ride and disappointing traveler food, that simple pasta — drenched in olive oil, studded with cherry tomatoes and pine nuts and topped with cheese — felt like the best meal we’d had. Home proves that great ingredients, treated well, make all the difference.
Until next time, Patnem — don’t change.
Patnem Beach is in South Goa, next to Palolem Beach. It’s about 1.5 hours from Goa airport; an AC cab costs roughly INR 1700. The nearest railway station is Canacona, accessible by train from Mumbai’s Kurla station. If you’ve been to Patnem, I’d love to hear what you think of the place and the food.
Papaya’s beach huts: [email protected]
Home also has rooms attached to the restaurant: [email protected]
All photos taken on my iPhone 6, some edited with VSCO Cam.