Every December 13, in towns across Scandinavia, families rise before dawn to celebrate a centuries-old winter festival of light. The eldest daughter traditionally wakes first, dresses in a white gown with a red sash, and wears a crown of candles. She carries a tray of glowing, saffron-scented St Lucia buns from room to room, singing carols and offering the sweet pastries to family and friends in honor of St. Lucia. Later the family joins a public procession where a girl chosen as “Lucia” distributes buns to the gathered crowd. She is joined by girls in white dresses and boys wearing star-cone hats as they sing and walk through the streets. This is St. Lucia Day.
St Lucia buns are notable for their variety of shapes, made possible by a soft, pliable dough. Shapes range from braided wreaths to the playful prästens hår (“priest’s hair”), but the most familiar form is the S-shaped roll, with each end of the dough rope curled in opposite directions. The origin of the S shape and its link to St. Lucia is not certain; one popular theory is that the curled ends resemble sleeping cats, which is reflected in the Swedish name lussekatter. In The Nordic Baking Book, Magnus Nilsson suggests the traditional lussekatt shape has four curls and that the common S-shape is actually called jugalt, meaning “Christmas boar.”
Whatever their shape, St Lucia buns bring warmth and color to the darkest days of the year. Embracing the Swedish custom, many people bake these fragrant buns at home to brighten the season. The recipe below uses saffron and a blend of sour cream for tenderness; while traditional methods often call for an overnight saffron infusion in vodka for deeper color, this recipe speeds up the process without sacrificing flavor.
- ⅓ cup (67 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar, divided
- ½ teaspoon saffron, lightly crushed
- 1 tablespoon (15 grams) vodka
- ⅔ cup (160 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (15 grams) whole milk, divided
- 1 tablespoon (9 grams) active dry yeast
- ⅓ cup (80 grams) sour cream, room temperature
- 2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature and divided
- 4 cups (480 grams) all-purpose flour
- 1 tablespoon (9 grams) kosher salt
- ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened
- Garnish: Swedish pearl sugar*
- Grind 1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar with the saffron in a mortar and pestle. Place the ground saffron in a small bowl and add the vodka. Let sit at least 20 minutes to release color and aroma.
- Heat ⅔ cup (160 grams) milk with the remaining ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar over low heat until warm, about 110°F (43°C) on an instant-read thermometer. Remove from heat and whisk in the yeast. Let sit until foamy, about 10 minutes. Whisk in the sour cream and 1 egg (50 grams), then whisk in the saffron mixture.
- In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, add the yeast mixture. With the mixer on low, gradually add half the flour mixture and mix until incorporated, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the butter, 1 tablespoon (14 grams) at a time, allowing each piece to incorporate before adding the next, about 5 minutes total. Scrape the bowl as needed. Gradually add the remaining flour mixture and beat until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 16 minutes total.
- Lightly spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Shape the dough into a smooth round, place it in the bowl and turn once to coat the top in oil. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free spot (about 75°F/24°C) until doubled, about 1½ hours.
- Preheat two baking sheets lined with parchment paper. Punch down the dough and turn it onto a lightly floured surface. Divide into 19 pieces of about 50 grams each, keeping the dough covered so it does not dry. Roll each piece into a 12- to 13-inch rope, tapering the ends. Curl each end into a tight spiral in opposite directions so they meet in the middle, forming an S shape. Place the formed buns at least 3 inches apart on the prepared pans. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) for 45 minutes.
- Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
- Whisk together the remaining egg (50 grams) and remaining 1 tablespoon (15 grams) milk. Brush each bun all over with the egg wash and sprinkle with Swedish pearl sugar, if using.
- Bake until the buns are golden brown, 7 to 10 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Store cooled buns in an airtight container for 3 to 4 days.
St Lucia buns pair beautifully with coffee or tea and are a festive, comforting bake to brighten a winter morning. Whether shaped as traditional lussekatter or formed into your preferred design, these saffron buns offer classic Scandinavian flavor and a warm, golden color that celebrates the light of the season.